No start after changing throttle body air flow

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No start after changing throttle body air flow

Unread postby 89FiveOh » Fri Jan 19, 2018 10:39 am

Hello All,
I just recently figured out my idle air the throttle body flows after doin some warm stable idle datalogs. I referenced an article called IDLE AIR 101. Anyways after the calculations I entered the airmass my TB flows at idle and updated the ISC xfer to match. Loaded tune, BAM, best smoothest idle yet. This was from a cold 30 degree F startup. Anyways, after I turned the car off annd tried to restart it, BAM, nothing. I wore my weak cold battery out trying to restart but to no avail.
Anyways, I put a charger on the battery and right away I noticed brighter interior lights and ect, ect. The moment I applied charge to the battery, the car fired right up immediately as it should. Perfect idle again.
My question, did the airmass corrections I made make a difference to a warm startup? I did log the battery voltage during my startup and it did however show a weak battery (less than 12 volts) at the point I tried to restart the car.
Would I need to tweak weak battery slopes at startup to fix this? Is it a warm/hot start issue? Or, charge the battery good and leave everything alone?
As I said before, the instant I had a strong battery voltage, it fired right up perfectly.

Thanks in advance
89FiveOh
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Re: No start after changing throttle body air flow

Unread postby decipha » Fri Jan 19, 2018 12:54 pm

too much going on to tell

first you need to get the mechanics in order, that being a stable battery voltage
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Re: No start after changing throttle body air flow

Unread postby 89FiveOh » Fri Jan 19, 2018 3:01 pm

Thanks for the help..
Dont think I have major problems as I sometimes go 2 weeks between cranking the car. We’ve had really low temps here and I figure a radio clock running non stop along with cold temperatures, its put a hurting on this battery. It barely had enuff to crank during the first datalog and I figure with lights radio and heat running in between datalogs that I just drained it down to a point where it just didnt turn it over enuff to hit a lick. Thanks for your help, again. Only reason I say that its not a bad mechanical problem is once I had a good 12+ volts with the help of the charger, it fired right up instantly and never had anymore weird symptoms.
Only way to tell I guess is to revert back to the previously entered scalars and change the ISC xfer back to the original
I guess ruling the tune changes out would be the first thing to check.

Cheers!.
89FiveOh
General Poster
 
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2018 5:13 pm
Name: Andy Borden
Vehicle Information: 1989 Mustang GT
GUFB A9L
Binary Editor/EEC Anaylyzer
Innovate MTX-L PLUS
MOATES QuarterHorse
308
Custom Cam (HR)
AFR 165, 58cc
BBK 75mm (24lb/hr calibration) MAF
5 speed
3.73 gears
NA
Full length BBK headers with H-pipe thru Flowmaster mufflers


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